I’m not usually for changing triggers on defensive guns, but many people consider the Apex trigger to be the perfect trigger for M&Ps.
I know this became the case because the M&P 1.0 triggers were not liked much, so it became common practice to throw an Apex into a new M&P. The 2.0s have a decent stock trigger though, but I’ve seen some people say the Apex is still the way to go. Any thoughts?
I dabbled for a time running M&P’s years ago and ran the 1.0. My friends had the apex and performance center sears and I definitely noticed the difference between theirs and mine. When the 2.0 came out which I still have a 2.0 shield 9mm in my inventory as well as my VERY used 1.0 shield, I sent a couple of mine into Smith to get their trigger package which drastically helped, I felt apprehensive adding the APEX as it was after market and by having Smith do the work it was covered under warranty and less prone to legal issues if that were to arise.
@Scoutbob … you still don’t have Apex in your M&P?
For me that was the first thing to do on my list.
I actually went with APEX Flat Trigger Set (it comes with sear and springs). The result was amazing.
This flat trigger is so easy to be pressed straight to the rear, like in 1911. There is very short take-up and nice short reset. Using Apex Set’s springs you can adjust trigger pull (from competition to defensive) .
I’ve never shot M&P 1.0 so cannot compare that trigger, but 2.0 was horrible for me out of the box
For now, I can say that Apex Trigger in M&P 2.0 feels very, very, very similar to trigger in Staccato pistols.
Only thing I’m not excited about is removing the rear sights to get to the striker block. I watched one guy just push the sights with his hand, and then another video where they had to knock the sights really hard with a punch. I also don’t have a really good vice set up for it
If you already have your permanent sights, just go to any gunsmith who will remove rear one and put back on place using sight pusher.
Striker block can be dropped into the hole in 2 seconds.
I was replacing my sights anyway, so I punched old rear sight by myself (didn’t care of its condition) and dropped the striker block and asked gunsmith to install new sights. It costed me $20 and 10 minutes.
I forget those things exist. I think I can use a sight pusher without a vice . (I have my local gun south install new sights for me)!
Might consider letting him out the kit in, but it’s not a cheap job.
Makes me realize some of these higher priced guns are not over priced. By the time I get M&P sights and a trigger we’re nearing $1,000.
I have M&P’s with the Apex trigger kits in them, and a 2.0 Shield .45 stock. The flat Apex trigger kit in my .40 compact 2.0 is best; but the other kits are great too. That said, my Walther PPQ 9mm out of the box beats all of them for trigger and reset.
, what’s sad is I’m still tempted to have them do it, working full time + little kids running around + home projects gives me little time to do some of these projects, and when I finally get around to them I’m already worn out. I’m the kinda guy that would rather spend what little free time I have shooting over extensive tinkering
I am concerned about the apex being too light. I don’t want a gun with less than a 5 pound trigger weight (preferably 5.5-6).
Might stick with the 2.0 trigger. The 2.0 triggers are good out of the box, but they do break in really well around 1,000 rounds.
Zero,null, cero, nulla…
Apex works even better having blade trigger safety, not like factory - hinged one.
I’ve been always in love in M&P9 but Apex trigger make it perfect polymer pistol.
I got over 3K rounds with Apex - no concerns at all.
I have an Apex Forward Set Sear kit with the aluminum trigger face in an M&P 1.0. It is without a doubt, the best striker fired trigger I have ever shot.