So now I need suggestions for a lower? (I’ll be roping @KevinM in to help me build it. He offered! 
)
*edited per @KevinM’s suggestion 
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I mean, you can buy a stripped lower with a serial number and not mess around, but if you or any family/friends/boyfriend have access to a milling machine, you can manufacture your own firearm, that doesn’t need a serial number, or an ATF trace. They’re totally illegal to sell, but fine to own. That is my basic understanding anyways.
Idk I’m going to get one eventually, but I’m taking baby steps first. The first one is just the matter of slapping an upper and lower together, the second will be from all prefabricated parts, and the 3rd I will manufacture. I only knew one guy that made one, and it took a lot of tinkering, because if you don’t bed the trigger correctly it will fire full auto, I can’t remember if it has something to do with the trigger catch not working or the sear.
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Andersen lower. Made of 7075 aluminum. Around 60 bucks.
I don’t see the appeal of an 80 percent lower. Trying to avoid the ATF? When it comes down to it all govt agencies already know you are a gun owner based on a host of other indicators. They will get a warrant and search your house, car, garage, outbuildings, you name it. If we ever end up with a nationwide gun confiscation will you turn in your serial numbered guns but not your 80 percent guns? I don’t think so. So avoid the hassles of doing the extra 20 percent of the work. Buy good parts. Build a good gun. Decide how you will use that gun if someone in uniform demands you turn it in.
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Do your homework and build your own, that will be the best AR-? For you. If anyone is interested in building one, but you have questions, please ask. I’ve built many, all different calibers and styles. Good luck.
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Good job, it feels good when you build it yourself.
@James If you haven’t seen them already, check out the jigs and instructional video from 5D Tactical. If I were doing an 80% build, I think I’d go that route.
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Yeah, that would be the only way.
There are some cheap polymer lowers and plastic jigs that don’t look so great. The guy I know that did it has a similar jig to the 5d tactical, and a small vertical mill I can use.
I own 2 Palmetto state Armory lowers. The last one I picked up for 30 bucks because they said it was blemished. I had to search for the blemish.
The best and worst part about going down this road is you choose the quality of firearm you wind up with. You’re very fortunate to be surrounded with level headed people who aren’t keyboard operators. So I doubt you’ll wind up in the internet vortex of the brand fanboys.
I think any milspec aluminum lower from a company that’s been around you would be safe. I would avoid a polymer lower.
The polymer lowers are susceptible to breaking at the buffer tube mounting point. If dropped, pressed upon from the sides. There are some that are reinforced at that point, I for one am not opposed just feel it’s food for thought.
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@BigMike and @Dawn, I like my Anderson I picked it up very cheap it was a buy any handgun or long arm during a grand opening/Black Friday sale get the lower for $29. I heard a lot of negative comments and mockery, so I felt what do I have to lose. It went together perfectly and runs like a champ.
They have some great engraved logo themes as well. It’s not fancy but it works and everything is within spec, if you have an issue I hear they’ll make it right.
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@James, we lived in the town of Acton used to be a mining town in the Sierra Pelona Mountains, the San Gabriel Mountains in the Angeles National Forest are located to the southeast. Has population of about 7K, lots of movie props and film locations the most popular site is Vasquez Rocks. Also Tippi Hedren has her wildlife preserve and lives there. My son used to work for a man who has movie animals, his favorite was Abbey the German Shepherd from I am legend. My home is near the area in the middle with the house icon, acton is to the east. The heart icons are the ranges I like to go to.
As far as leaving it’s frustating but I’ve said it before we have our reasons to stay not so much about retreating. I’m not familiar with Chico or Mendocino County. I did find these stats, we’re about the same.
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Kerry I have always gone with the 80% arms inc. jig kits, originally, I got the Gen-1 kit for the AR-15 and for the AR-10, they were a little raw but always a perfect cut every time if you did what you’re supposed to do. Since then they came out with the Gen-2 easy jig, what an awesome set up, one jig does all, they improved everything about the easy jig, there’s almost no chatter which as you know makes for a smoother finished product, less filing less sanding, they really put a lot into the endmill. I’ve done about 20-80% lowers on the Gen-2 and it’s still like new. The designers are machinists by trade, so they have their sh*# wired tight. Check them out.
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@Steve-G, 80% arms is a local company they’re highly recommended with great reviews, I have a few family members that refers them just as you do.
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If you plan to go with a mil-spec lower they’re pretty much all the same. I used an Anderson lower myself. For my upper I went with a Gibbz side charge (kinda pricey though)
Great suggestions so far! I’m taking notes! What do you recommend for the upper?
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This is what I bought, it should be here tomorrow. https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-pencil-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-15-lightwieght-m-lok-upper-with-nickel-boron-bcg-ch-mbus-sight-set.html I like free floated barrels more than fixed barrels with a A2 front sight post.
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I am probably going with an A2 style upper on the pistol build I want to do.
I think the Gibbz side charge upper I went for is pretty sweet. If you go for all the options like I did it is kind of pricey though in my opinion.
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