In training have you trained that when shooting you don’t fully release the trigger after each round but release just to the trigger break point and continue firing down range. It improves timing,on target firing, recoil and on target assessments. Are you familiar with this weapons firing technique)? Do you listen to the sound of your weapon to discern it from other weapons fire in a use environment?
The trigger break takes a bit of practice, if you have not done this before,but the dividends are enormous.
Do you do this?, what say u community?
Never release beyond the break point.
For me it’s tactile and yes, I only release to the break point unless I’m coming off target to assess the scene.
Definitely improves accuracy and speed with which you can make accurate followups.
I have a number of different SIG trigger assemblies. The one which is “strangest?” is the DAK where you have double action only and the break point is 1/4th of an inch short of the full release. It’s also 1/8th of an inch before the point the trigger lifts the hammer off the firing pin locked above while cocking. I’ve recently acquired a 226 DA/SA with SRT and man, what a difference to my 239 with DA/SA before SRT. As I lead out though, the DAK idea while great for proving to a court you weren’t looking to rapidly fire downrange in an incident is just a bizarre reality to become comfortable with. (Oh, and it’s nothing like say a Smith and Wesson J frame revolver with no exposed hammer and DA only…)
On your dak have you considered switching the trigger pull weights, so that the short pull is weaker or lighter, than the long pull? Have you kept the entire pull weight under five or six lbs. Obviously you do not want the short pull to light. How is your center grouping different between long pull and short pull. Can you group under the nose well, with both settings
So, how do you do this if you carry different style triggers? (Striker fired vs SA) I recently got a Sig P365, and obviously it is a different trigger than a 3# 1911 trigger. It seems to me, if you use different style triggers, a full trigger pull for each shot might work better. Any thoughts on this?
This is why I encourage people to stick with one type IE Glock, XD/XDM etc.
If you ever find yourself in a fight the last thing you want to be worrying about is, “Gee which gun did I bring today”.
Probably good advice. I might sell the p365 and get the single stack 938.
Who am I kidding, I will keep the 365 AND get the 938… Tupperware is handy sometimes.
I tend to stay within caliber groups,yes I have a 45 and yes i have a weapon that fires 9mm. But for me my main stay is 40cal. This then tends to produce generically weapons trigger pulls in the same range, before I make whatever are personal choice adjustments.
When firing to the trigger break, if on a new weapon and I miss the break,I am still not at a full trigger pull,so I still have an advantage tactically. Due to my personal weapons selection the 45 is a third level backup, the 9 mm is a completely different style of weapon(mpx style) so there is no training confusion,admittedly my main base is ELT ( 1500-2000)(338-50)so thinking may be a bit different than some however if you are consistent in caliber,then by a few manufacturer’s pull weights are similar. if training for a performance level , that’s one thing, if collecting then that is something else and it wouldn’t matter,if its a love thing that’s entirely different, so the question is what is your purpose? Competition,work,love,just the fun of it,or owning the latest and greatest? This will all enter into how you train and carry, but regardless of how good you are,the best gun fight is the one that never happened. weapons life style is just a better form of golf,with better perks and more testing and better preparedness. Lol hope this is helpful.