What is the best way to break in a New Leather holster

I just purchased a Versacarry Comfort Flex Deluxe. I have been using an Alien Gear appendix holster that pinches me a bit. This one looked like it would be more comfortable. I just received the holster and the problem is that the leather is so stiff that I have to pound the weapon into it and then it is almost impossible to pull out. Does anyone have any tips about what works best to soften up the leather.

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I’ve never used a leather holster, but holster manufacturers seem to have have similar recommendations to put your gun in a thick plastic bag and let it sit overnight.


Like PDA3 said, wrap it in a plastic bag, or even wax paper. I would not start with super thick plastic, but a regular zip lock bag or wax paper should do it.

If it is a double loop holster, you might want to put a belt through the holes in the holster while you let the gun sit in it.

I have an extremely tight Milt Sparks holster I have almost gotten ready to wear, it has taken some time. Be patient, you don’t want to stretch it too much.


This is all I use on leather, inside and out. My Father and Grandfather used it and I use it. :+1:
P.S. I use the blow drier.

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Good advices so far.
I’ve bought leather holster for my 1911 and followed instruction - moisturized the holster form inside, put handgun into ziplock bag and left holstered overnight.
My Instructor told me later that better method was to use wet sock instead of ziplock.
But the ziplock method worked perfectly.

No leather for me, but I’ve been told to wrap the firearm in wax paper and insert/remove it from the holster a bunch of times. Kydex doesn’t need break in. :slight_smile:

My local sporting goods store has a steamer/leather softener case for baseball gloves that works really good on leather holsters

I wouldn’t use leather softener on a holster.

Some of my better leather holsters actually “click in” the firearm like the Kydex holsters or the plastic holsters many people think are Kydex. Softener can ruin this.


Murpheys soap, and mink oil manual manipulation.

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That’s true, @Scotty. My holster is really hard as a leather, perhaps doesn’t click, but works the same way as kydex one. (I learnt on my own mistakes, when bought my first leather holster and it was so soft and collapsed when empty… :woozy_face:)
Definitely no reason to use softener. Holster has to be rigid.

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We used mink oil on our leather boots in the Army. If I go to anywhere outdoors I’ll do the same. But I’m not sure it would be advisable to use it on a holster. Will have to hear what others say.

Saddle soap, then put it under mattress and sleep on it for a while

I had soldiers that used to wear uniforms that looked like they slept on them. It didn’t work. :rofl:

Us old squids know that by laying your dress blues and whites under your mattress is the only sure way to have wrinkle free uniforms when coming off a deployment. That is also why the creases appear to be “wrong” because the uniforms are stored inside out to keep the outside clean.

If this were boots I have the cure but alas I don’t see anyone throwing their bang stick wrapped in leather into the ocean for a while. That said ALCOHOL (Isopropyl not Bourbon) is what is needed for forming a holster. It actually will shrink the leather in all directions at the same time. Oil said gun up good and wet with OIL (10W-30 NON SYNTHETIC works) not some cleaning solvent. Dunk the holster in a container of alcohol and let it soak. Combine the two together and let them sit someplace warm. Follow it up with Neets Foot Oil on the leather, the gun will be fine but you can clean it if it makes you happy.



NEVER use anything to soften a leather holster! For cowhide, wrap the gun tightly in plastic wrap, holster the gun, and leave it for several hours or overnight, and repeat if needed, until the holster takes a “set”. The plastic is to protect the gun from tannic acids in the cowhide. Since horsehide is tanned differently, you’ll avoid the stretching cowhide undergoes in usage. Once in a while, it’s a good idea to use a beeswax-type dressing - like Fiebing’s Aussie Leather Dressing - to enhance the finish. A bit of it warmed up on the stove should be applied to the stitching with a Q-Tip. Once the dressing is applied, use a soft cloth and rub the leather and stitching to really heat the leather’s grain up, melt the wax, and produce an even satin finish. FYI

A couple of days of time in situ has always worked for me.
Not too tight
Not too loose
It’s Juuust right! :grinning: