Thank you for shedding some light about the batteries. I do not feel alone about rechargeable batteries.
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Rechargeable batteries are ok for TV remote or PC keyboard. Both can die anytime and I can live without them. 
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While a lot of rechargeable batteries are junk some are really good. I have a high power work flashlight with a 6 year old 18650 sized rechargeable battery that is still working almost as well as the day I bought it. It lives in my vehicle and has been regularly subjected to temperatures from -20F to over 120. It will hold the majority of its charge for over a year if I’m not using it much.
You need to find good brands and make sure you are not getting a fake copy of those brands. Especially when ordering from outfits like Amazon.
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Yeah, the key is to get a good, branded stuff… but even that with firearm flashlights or lasers I need immediate action with changing the batteries. Charging just won’t work if the battery dies. I need to have a spare fully charged replacement. In that case I prefer to have $2 CR123A regular one.
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I’ve had my flashlight for quite a while and have never charged it. It makes light like daylight. The spare batteries were a waste of money. lol
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The 18650 battery can be used in place of two CR123a batteries. I carry a pair of the 123s in my car in case my 18650 dies but have never needed them. But agree that if you have a light that will be staged or carried a lot but used little then high quality non rechargeable batteries are the way to go. Though I have had even Energizer and Duracell batteries leak and ruin flashlights so it is important to check your batteries regularly regardless of type.
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If your AA or AAA batteries will sit for a long time, the lithium disposable versions shouldn’t leak… the Alkalines are the ones you have to watch out for. However, be aware that some brands of AA and AAA flashlights will suggest not using Li (or even NiMH)… if you are worried about warranties or longevity.
Alkalines work fine if you use them a lot and frequently change batteries. If you want to be safe, you can always keep the batteries out, and only put them in when in use. I’ve had Duracell and Energizers Alkalines start leaking sitting in a plastic Zip Lock bag in a Rubbermaid storage container in my basement after a few years of storage.
Another issue with some of the higher powered AA lights, is that some of them have electronic switches (like some of the newer tailcap switch Maglites) which slowly drains the batteries over time… although the same could be said about some of the CR123 compatible higher powered flashlights. For example, some of the newer Maglites and my Streamlight Protac HL-5X have an electronic switch and slight but constant battery drain (unless mechanically locked out), while my Streamlight HL-4 uses a mechanical switch (power button breaks the circuit). Again, not a big issue if you frequently use the lights and replace the battereies (or charge them) often, but it could be an issue if you have it sitting in the flashlight for rare emergencies.
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We should start a whole 'nother thread on batteries 
It’s all about your use case, and being aware that the downfalls of older style batteries (NiMH, NiCad, early Li-ion) are not really true anymore. In some cases disposable are the right answer and other times rechargeables are the right answer and often… it doesn’t matter, just pick one 
Looking at just CR123a (disposable) vs RCR123a (rechargeable), which is as close as we’re likely to get as far as apples to apples… you will get more voltage and runtime from the rechargeable (3.7v compared to 3.0v). That means you can potentially (if you flashlight is capable) get brighter output and it will last longer. Some flashlights will only support one or the other, so make sure to check into that as well (usually because they either can’t handle higher voltage, or their task requires more than disposables can provide).
The disposables do perform better in extreme temps. They hold their voltage and capacity better. So if that is a factor in your environment that could sway you towards disposables.
How much they discharge over time IMO is a negligible difference. Rechargeables lose (i think) like 10% pretty quickly (like a few months) and afterwards maybe 2% per year. I’m not sure how much capacity is lost for disposables but most reputable brands list a 10year shelf life, so over 10 years they must keep “most” of their capacity.
In a SHTF scenario, how long can you continue to find disposables of any kind? Whereas you can get a solar charger to top up your rechargeable batteries.
The right answer is probably have a mix of different types of batteries for different usage.
- Light in your car that you will rarely if ever use? Disposable, and maybe keep the batteries outside the light.
- EDC light that you use a lot every day? Rechargeable.
- Weapon light on an HD firearm that gets used once or twice a year? Disposable and replace every year
- Weapon light on a duty weapon or weapon you use every weekend (using the light)? Rechargeable, top it off every day/week/month as needed
As always YMMV
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I don’t know… I think the RCR123’s generally have around half the mAh’s of the CR123’s, usually translating to less run time on the RCR123’s.
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I bought the Olight PL-2 for $90 after $30 discount.
I tried it on my EDC, Ruger SR9C, and it fit perfectly.
However, I might put it on one of my other pistols and make it my bump in the night gun. I’ll try it later.
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Doh, you are right! RCR123a is about half the mAh of CR123a. I guess that’s the tradeoff for the voltage.
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Some 18650 batteries can have over 3500 mah. But I’m not sure if all flashlights that take 2 cr123s can handle them. And obviously the lights that take one cr123 can’t.
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18650 batteries have a slightly larger diameter than CR123’s. The light has to be built for 18650’s in order for them to fit in. For example, I have a Surefire G2X. It is built for CR123’s. An 18650 will not physically fit inside the battery tube. By contrast, my Olight M1X striker will accommodate an 18650 (which is what I carry in it). But it will also accept CR123’s. Olight typically sells their lights with a battery magazine for use when using CR123’s becuase the smaller diameter CR123’s will sometimes rattle inside a tube built big enough for 18650’s.
Also, the voltage of CR123’s and 18650 is different. The light has to be built to accommodate the differences. (I understand very little of voltage, mah, etc. so if I’m incorrect, my apology, but I do beleive the circuitry of the light has to be build to accommodate the power/output of the batteries as well as the physical size difference. Go hang out on Candle Power Forums if you want to dive deep into the technical specs.)
As far as battery chemisty in extreme temperatures, I’ve never had an 18650 fail in cold weather. This includes walking a couple of miles in pitch black in sub-freezing temperatures with an 18650 powered headlamp. (Nitecore HC33.)
I’ve also never had a RCR123 last very long–even using a reputable brand battery. The battery quickly becomes unrealiable even with a full charge.
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If you’re interested…
The RCR123’s are basically 16340’s, and are the same size as CR123’s. The "16xxx"means 16mm diameter, and “xx340” means 340 mm in length. This is of the stripped down battery, as protection circuitry and/or USB charge port will add to the overall length.
CR123’s are rated at 3V, and rechargeable lithium usually around 3.7V nominal. I think a fresh, out of box CR123 puts out around 3.2v, where a freshly recharged Li rechargeable will be around 4.2V. This makes things more drastic when trying to shove two RCR123’s into a 2xCR123 light (6.4V vs 8.4V).
Although it’s an oversimplification, I understand V, A, and mAh like this… voltage is how much push the electrons have, A is how much flow for electrons the battery can sustain, and mAh is how big the gas tank is.
Since CR123’s are 16" in diameter, flashlights built for 2xCR123’s should fit 16650’s. I sometimes use an Eagletac 16650 with 2,500 mAh in my Surefire Tactician. This is less than ideal, however, as SF builds most of it’s lights for 3Vx2 = 6 volts. So even though I get a longer run time with my 16650, the brightness is significantly lower for the first 1/3 of the battery life, and only sustains the longer run time at a “usable” light, rather than a “blinding” light. This is exacerbated by the Tactician’s flood style beam. On the flip side, I tried the 16650 in a 20 year old Defender LED, and the light was almost at the lower mode level with the 16650.
Surefire sells their version of a Lithium Phosphate 16340. Lithium Phosphate uses a different charger than the more popular Li ion rechargeables. However, their nominal current is 3.2V instead of the 3.7 of the Li ion rechargeables. If you don’t mind the lower runtimes (lower mAh than dosposable CR123), increased cost and remembering to use the LiPo charger and batteries separate from Li ion batteries and charger, this would give an option for using rechargeables in the 2xCR123 designed lights.
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Be aware that many newer rechargeable electronics are designed to be replaced when the internal battery looses its oomph. There is no access to the battery and no suitable replacement can be found. I learned this the hard way on a GoPro camera. Was just reminded of this practice while considering the Streamlight Wedge.
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I definitely avoid electronics that don’t have a reasonable way to replace the battery when it reaches the end of its life cycle.
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What can I buy that is Made in USA, over 1000 lumens, and compact for EDC?
I was looking online at Zebralight SC64w, 1400 lm and 3.6" long, the company is American but outsources manufacturing to you know where.
Then Surefire EDCL2T, with 1200 lm and almost 6" long it is biggish and pricey, but at least it only sources LEDs from abroad.
Any better recommedations?
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You would have to shop around on their site, but I’m in love with every Nitecore I own.
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Surefire is your best bet, they have several models made for EDC. You can maybe use a modlite as an EDC? (thats a bit of a stretch tho).
Streamlight is also possible, but they make some lights in US, and some overseas so you have to check each one individually to see where its made.
Powertac is USA company, but they send manufacturing overseas as well (this is a common theme…).
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