I put a wooden pencil eraser end first into the barrel and shoot it to validate the firing pin block is functioning properly. One of my pistols shoots it across the room and all the others shoot it at least a couple of feet.
I recently acquired my first revolver, a S&W 686 .357 caliber. The pencil not only does not fly out of the barrel, it will barely push the end of the pencil to the edge of the muzzle. I know it must hit the primer hard enough because it does fire. Is this normal for a revolver?
The real motivation for asking the question is I am thinking of filing off the hammer spring set screw to lower the DA trigger pull weight. My target DA pull is ~9 pounds. I am concerned the hammer might not hit the firing pin hard enough if I start messing with it.
Is it possible there is an assembly error and it should be hitting harder?
I am not a gun smith but would check if the firing pin is functioning properly and within specs. As far as trigger pull IDK if it would have any effect on hammer spring. I donāt think it would but that is a guess. Now that I think about it I would also check the hammer spring. Hope this helps and good luck.
instead of filing the mainspring, I would acquire a reduced power Wolf Spring kit. The last one I got was from Brownellās. I would get the rebound spring tool if you do not have one already to remove and then replace the rebound spring. Do not remember the spring weights but used the lowest one. That really helps reduce the double action pull. The main spring has a ridge that runs down the center that reduces stacking in double action. The hit on primers seems harder but the double action is nicely tamed down.
Pro-Spring Kit #SWK/L/N-202 For S&W K, L, N Frame Revolver
Brownells #
080665202
MFR #
PRO-SPRING KIT SWK/L/N-202
UPC
050806101883
The tool: Rebound Slide Spring Tool For S&W
Brownells #
080666000
MFR #
S & W REBOUND SLIDE SPRING TOO
UPC
050806001923
I have used the spring kits on all the K\L\N frames I have had. The rebound spring tool makes the task much easier, and you will not have to play chase the spring.
Thanks, I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled when I got it. I probably got lucky using a Phillips Head screwdriver to put the rebound spring back in.
Bad memories. Circa 1976, my friend complained his 1911 was failing to fire, light primer hits. I told him we could do a quick check of how much impact was generated by using this pencil test. He got the gun, a pencil, sat down at the kitchen table. He Inserted pencil, pulled trigger, and we said audios to his chandelier, part of ceiling and roof. As our ears were ringing he remembered that the last round had failed to fire and, well, he forgot to clear the chamber. Anyway, thatās my most memorable firing pin and pencil experience. I donāt need to remind anyone here about taking the necessary precautions, like not using a pencil you care about.
Great idea I need to go put a pencil in my car so it will be available next time I am at a store with a brand new one in stock.
I appreciate the advise. Since this was a used purchase I think it makes sense for me to order a new strain screw and backup firing pin w/spring - pay shipping one time Any other parts I should think of?
For completeness, this is what it looked like inside when I bought it:
In my experience, the hammer spring set screw is pretty sensitive. Iāve adjusted my Model 66/19ās set screw trying to obtain a lighter DA trigger pull, but more often than not ended up with a revolver that does not fire. Be careful and always check at the range with live ammo for function.
It is an A1 pulley release surgery at the base of the thumb. I had the pinky finger done in April and recovery wasnāt too bad nor long. The surgeon says the thumb is a quicker, easier recovery, so crossing fingers
I put in a post a month or so ago that when we were young we would do the pencil thing to cure flinching, but I wouldnāt mess with a spring myself like I saw on here somewhere from someone to just get a set of Wolf springs for it if they offer them , wouldnāt hurt to have sum for any gun you have they are great springs.
The wheel guns are more complex than people think , and so are lever actions , crack one of those things open real good and you better know what youāre doing putting it back together right
You are 100% correct about that. Hereās a couple of examples from my experience:
#1: A guy I used to shoot with, who shall remain nameless, bought a Sig Sauer P938 subcompact 9mm pistol. The 1st time he shot it, he thought it was great. He took it home, cleaned it, and returned to the range the next week. On the 1st shot, the slide went flying halfway down the range leaving nameless with the grip/frame in his hand. He was so determined it was a defective product rather than an assembly mistake on his part that he took it down the street and traded it for another product that was worth half the price of the P938.
#2: I inherited my Grandfatherās octagon barrel Stevens Favorite single shot 22LR. The extractor has never worked my entire life. Used to always use a stiff wire down the barrel to eject a spent case out. Since it is about 100 years old and has a lot of sentimental value to me, I asked around and took it to a gunsmith that specializes in antique firearms. He kept it a week and told me to come pick it up because he could not figure out how to make it work. He recommended another gunsmith to give it a try. I took it home, disassembled and studied it on my own. In less than an hour it was properly assembled and fully functional. That was the only, and the last, time I took anything to a gunsmith. That was 7 years ago.
I need to go put a pencil in my car so it will be available next time I am at a store with a brand new one in stock.
Any other parts I should think of?
