It is a decent cleaner on some things.
Cheaper to use it than my good stuff on certain items.
And is great on bike chains. It isnāt on there enough to damage the O-rings and they look great. Iāve gotten the most mileage out of chains using only WD-40.
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Thatās fine on the street and track.
Mountain biking, especially gravel grinding when the dust particles are tiny and in the trillions, the WD dries out and starts collecting all that dust.
Wax is best for combatting dust and dirt. I keep a good grade of car wax all over my bikes and used to wax my chain until I started using SSSS. The wax is far better for dust than SSSS, but the SSSS does a good enough job and I donāt need make the wax chain lube.
Coincidentally, I use a good grade of car wax on my hunting guns, too. Keeps 'em clean and dry and prevents any rust from starting. Water rolls right off and dirt donāt stick.
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I have a door that keeps freezing shut. I just got done cleaning off the door and slathering the inside edges of it with WD40. Weāll see what that does.
Can WD40 keep a door from freezing shut?!
Weāll know when you report back. 
What kind of door?
Yep. It actually worked. Ths door was not froze shut this morning.
Outside storm door.
I thought I might be able to tell you how to fix it so it doesnāt hit where it sticks depending on what kind of door it is. If you like? I have been In construction almost all my life.
Now, Iāve done some research on WD40 since this thread began and found this stuff has ALOT of uses. In fact itās obscene how many uses there are for this stuff. Donāt even have time to read them all.
Iāve used it many times on bikes and guns ā but donāt like it. Iāll stick with SSSS for that. But Iāll keep some WD around now for other things.
Thanks for the eye opener WD40 fans!
Iām thinking about removing that old door and just not having one there during winter! What a pain the arse!
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If youāre a WD-40 convert (a good decision considering how often it improves our lives), youāre going to love PB Plaster (probably not for firearms).
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Ah, now I am a convert. Glorious!
Let us bless this conversion with a blessing from one of my favorite saints, St. Olga of Kiev, the patron saint of widows and converts.
Amen.
PS., I also sprayed some of it on my old shower and it broke up the hard water stains and rust and I washed it away.
Cool. 
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For lube, my brother had been using Wilson Combat Ultima Lube II, so I got some to give it a try.
A bottle is expensive, but you use very little of it, so it lasts a long time. (I snip the tip off such that I have to get a wrist workout just to get a drop) Itās pretty viscous, yet somehow penetrating. Rated for -40F to 425F.
Itās review #6 on this page:
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Iāve been using the WC Ultima Lubes for years. Itās great stuff and does last a long time.
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Iāll give you a total dissertation on why I use this stuff. First of all, it depends on the use case. My AK is slathered in tractor grease. Itās a less precise firearm, it doesnāt have the tight tolerances of an AR or a Glock, and it has points of impact where you need the cushion effect of greaseā¦
Now for pistols and AR platforms and Super Slick Stuffā¦ This stuff ends up bone dry, it soaks into the pores of the metal, makes it slick, but dry. When I clean an AR, itās usually after about 1500-2000 rounds. This stuff prevents corrosion, so I periodically just soak down the entire gun, grips, barrel inside and out, all internal parts, all of it and let it dry. This means there isnāt any liquid inside the BCG and other internals to catch that carbon and turning into a semi-solid gunk that sticks everywhere. When anything starts to stick the chamber pressures blow it out of the rifle. Iāve had misfires using oil because the oil basically causes a hydraulic lock in the firing pin sleeve. If itās wet with oil in there, the carbon fouling starts to build up. Iāve seen grains of stand in the firing pin sleeve stop an AR dead in itās tracks. The fact that the internals are literally dry keeps anything that gets in there from sticking around. When a gun is clean and hasnāt been fired a couple of times it does sound a little rough, but once you get that faint layer of carbon in there combined with the dry lube itās smooth as silk. I cleaned a rifle the other day that had eaten 1500 rounds of Tula and Wolf. After scrubbing the lugs on the bolt and on the inside of the chamber, it barely turned the toothbrush black. The only carbon in the gun was in the pressure chamber behind the bolt. Another huge advantage to this stuff is that since itās dry, it doesnāt matter how cold the gun is, it will fire every time. You could dip a glock or an AR in liquid nitrogen and it wouldnāt freeze up. This has converted MANY duck hunters I know to this stuff b/c they get out in sub zero temps to hunt ducks and have to slam shotguns into the ground b/c the oil is frozen up. A dry but slick and water repellant mechanism means dirt doesnāt stick, water doesnāt hang around, and there is nothing to freeze up. Itās also a very good cleaner, it will break away any gunked up oil or grease immediately. The only thing comparable would be some of the high end PTFE lubes, but they are also toxic, and this stuff isnāt. Itās LITERALLY the best thing since sliced bread for gun maintenance. Iāve never had a failure related to the operation of the gun, Iāve had a few duds, but I maintain my firearms, this is how I maintain them and while failures happen, you can reduce it to almost zero. I donāt agree with the āmil-specā methods due to how poorly every liquid lubricant performs in extreme cold weather, and while I shoot my guns at the range on nice days, I like to know that if something bad happens, and I need to carry that rifle out into the snow and itās -10 outside I can stake my life on that rifle functioning when I pull the trigger. To me that supersedes minute amounts of wear that might happen from running it on the dry side. I have yet to see any significant wear on any parts anyway. My rifles with thousands of rounds on them have worn off the black coating in some spots where they make contact, but the metal is like a mirror itās so smooth and slick. Iāll trade on the spot reliability for the possibility of replacing cam pins and bolts every 30k rounds or whatever it might take. I should make a youtube channel and actually fire 30-50k rounds through a dry lubed rifle just to see what the effects are. Nothing that is more serious than a jammed rifle in cold weather with my life at stake, this much I know. While Iām at it I should mention I do go the extra mile and get NIB-X coated BCGās. I have experienced no wear on those with dry lube, and once coated in Super Slick Stuff, they will borderline slip out of your hand. Be smart about how you handle your firearms, take advantage of the new technologies like NIBX and dry lubing. I was stunned at the rifle I cleaned the other night because it didnāt REALLY need cleaned, and it had 2000 rounds on it. The barrel swab, chamber, and bolt lugs barely blackened the toothbrush, and when I do those serious cleanings, I am soaking the entire BCG in mineral spirits and scrubbing the internals of the rifle. That rifle could have gone through many thousands of rounds more due to using higher quality parts and dry lubing so gunk never forms in the first place. It echoes the original intent of the AR platform to basically be self cleaning. Since I do periodically spray down the entire rifle inside and out with super slick, I suspect that doing that washes the grime that IS in the chamber straight out of the barrel, and leaves only the gas tube and chamber inside the BCG for any residue to even build up. The outside of the bolt behind the gas rings did have some carbon fouling that had to be chipped off, but it was there when I cleaned the rifle several years ago before I switched to dry lube. Modern materials mean that liquid oil is just a net negative because it holds dirt and carbon fouling. Lastly, I lube my Glocks the exact same way, spray down the entire gun in Super Slick, the entire slide, everything is dry in it as well, and while it does get a big dirtier as far as carbon existing on the internals of the gun, if I spray it down, it just washes away with the excess super slick, and the gun is as clean as if Iād cleaned it. Once again, I would not handle my AKās like that, they get ā ā ā ā ā ā ā tractor grease because of the high impact metal on metal parts and the need for a thick coating on springs etc in the event I come across corrosive ammo, but it comes down to design philosophy. AKās were made by a tank designer, ARās were made by an aircraft engineer. As a result, maintenance is very different between the two. I dry lube tight tolerances, and I grease loose tolerance high impact stuff. As far as my SHTF rifle, I have a 6.5 Grendel that I would recommend to anybody. You have the reliability, elegance, and tolerances of an AR platform with a higher power cartridge that hits harder at longer ranges. If I needed to flee my home right now, my 6.5 Grendel, my high end .223 Wylde chambered AR, and my Glock would go with me. Iād throw the AK in the trunk just in case, but as long as I had sufficient ammo, the Grendel would be my go-to. Just my $5 worth of input. 
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Welcome to the forum Jonathan.
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Glad to be here. Iāve been looking for this thread for a while because I discovered SSS, realized the ādry gun oilā they use is the exact same thing at 3x the price, and tried it out. Iām religious about the stuff now, I literally canāt say enough good things about it. Iāve had ex military shoot my rifles and Iāll casually just ask āwhat if I told you that gun doesnāt have even a single drop of oil in the entire rifleā. Every single person has been stunned that you can run an ar-15 as dry as the sahara and it turn out more reliable. Donāt tell anybody, but Iād pay $50 a can for this stuff to use as gun oil. Again, glad to be here!
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is this what your talkin about???
or thisā¦
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Welcome to the circus, Jonathan, and thanks for the product review. I appreciate the experience-based information.