Does anyone paint his / her firearms?
If yes, what is the easiest way to do a durable coating?
I’m looking for some info, mostly focusing on Cerakote C.
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I have had two guns Cerakoted. I had a Thompson 45 acp done. It needed repairs done to it so I went all the way with it. It is silver instead of that scary black color. Then my wife had a galactic universe paint job on hers. She actually won a drawing for a Cerakote job. There are so many designs for them. You can go many ways with it.
The Cerakote is very durable too. If you want durable that is the way to go.
I have rattle canned a 5.56 in a Camo design, but I did that because I wanted the worn, distressed look to it.
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Did you use Cerakote C, which hardens in room temperature? What about spray technique?
I also do not have sand blasting machine, so have to find the way to use something available at home.
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I took them to my local gun shop and had them done. I know my limits and that is farther than I want to go. I wanted them done right.
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At least I know that coating is durable…
Thx for input.
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I went to cerakote’s website where they list local businesses, mostly LGS, that use their product.
I went to a LGS and had a flag design added to my 1911 slide. It cost me $65, real simple, but my impression was the place don’t put much priority to that part of their operations. I understand.
I lost interest in cerakote as a result.
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This is a topic that is widely discussed in the home build community. If you want to find information on a forum check out a Polymer 80 discussion group, such as you’ll find on Reddit. You can search the topic and find people who DYI, as well as professionals doing it. Lots of strong opinions to weed thru, as well as good information.
I have a Browning Hi Power that I’ve owned for around 1/2 century. Carried it so much that the original finish had become pretty ragged, so I had it Cerakoted and installed an SFS system from BKSpringsSolutions (in 50 years I had never changed the original springs, so I thought it was time) and added adjustable sights (30 years ago). I really like the new look, but the Cerakote finish made the serial number unreadable, which is a problem for states that require all firearms to have a serial number (e.g., California).
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Had my Canik SFx Rival done, didn’t like the gold trim it came with, and I had bought it before the dark came out.
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I wouldnt mind trying one of those DIY kits but not sure the durability of those kits. I know a professional can do a good job but a home kit?
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Try it. Duracoat is easier than Cerakote but pretty durable. Better than a rattlecan.
The worst that can happen is that you’ll have to remove the finish with some solvent and/or sandblasting or simply paint over it. Firearms are just tools, not relics.
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What kind of preparation does a 1911 need for example?
I want my RIA to look a bit more fancy like a Ruger SR1911.
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It’s pretty simple. Take the firearm completely apart. Clean everything you want painted. Rough the surfaces up a bit. Spray on the desired finish. There are a million color and surface choices. Hang the pieces on wire so that you can do all the surfaces and let them dry without resting the pieces on anything that could mar the finish. I used a Harbor Freight sprayer (< $25) connected to my compressor for spraying for light even coats.
Ceracoat requires that the painted surfaces be baked in an oven to cure the finish (do this when your wife is away). Ceracoat was designed as a high-temperature finish for engines, so it’s more durable than Duracoat, but I’ve been pleased with Duracoat.
One of my builds with Duracoat Prussian Blue. I’ve used at classes that involved several hundred rounds with no issues at all. And no one confused my gun with their plain-Jane evil black rifles in the rifle rack. 
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This is my 2nd bookmarked thread because I am interested in how this works out for you.
Have you considered
https://kgcoatings.com/product-category/protective-coatings/
Baking for an hour at 300 to 325 degrees F doesn’t sound too difficult. It is still a one part material. They also have the air cure 1200 series.
This is an interesting link I found:
What Gun Coating Should You Use? – Unique-ARs.
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That is not required anymore if you use particular product series.
Right now we can use Cerakote C, which doesn’t require baking, it hardens in room temperature, just needs more time to cure.
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How much time? I have a G30 I would like to coat
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24 hr without touching, then 5 days without using.
I’m in the process of smoothing edges of my carry SFX9.
I’m currently waiting for Catakote C black paint.
Hopefully all will be done by the end of month, so will post more details how did it go …
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I always wondered what cerakote was and why I would want it.
I haven’t wanted to give my rifle any particular look, but I had a muzzle device that had to be ground off to be replaced because whoever put my rifle together used red locktite on the barrel, so I’ve got some bare aluminum. I’m thinking I need a new rifle instead, but I’m interested in this process anyway.
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I’ve had limited success with Birchwood Casey Aluminum touch up product. I say limited because durability is nothing to brag about. On the other hand, it is easy to touch it up over and over again as required.
People need to learn that “ Cali-corn- ya “ ( just made that one up lol ) just don’t mix.
And Browning Hi - Powers are great guns and CZ took one and made a double action and named it the CZ 75 which is one of the best 9 mm’s ever. I love that dual- tone to. If I’m looking for a handgun I look for dual tone handguns.
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