First AR 556/223

You know I’ve not tried to add any parts, but I think that’s probably the only disadvantage of the rifle (If you are an accessory person).

I will say the Ruger 556 in my personal opinion is better but as we all know it’s going to be about personal preferences so I’m not the one to talk you out of your calling. If you have a rifle you prefer grab it.

For example the man (grandpa) who taught me everything about weapons at a young did not like the AR style rifle and I think the thought brought back memories about Vietnam (I’m not sure, never got a chance to ask).

Therefore, in my opinion grab the rifle in general that does you the best. It does not have to be the AR style, but one that does you well…

Don’t get it wrong IM ALL FOR getting you an AR but get one that does YOU well…

Lord Deinonychus wants a Tavor.

I found out about them after I had my AR, but that’s okay. I’m sure I will have one eventually. If any of you want to give me one for Christmas, I’ll send range pics. :stuck_out_tongue:

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Still tapping my foot waiting on delivery of parts to assemble a 10-1/2” barrel 5.56/223 AR-15 pistol, so my brain is pondering what ifs. Other than having an “arm brace” as opposed to a “stock”:

  1. Would swapping out barrel, gas block, and gas tube be all that’s functionally required to convert to 300 Blackout?

  2. Would swapping out to a 16” 5.56/223 barrel with appropriate gas tube length and gas block work?

  3. Or, do the buffer tube or buffer tube spring need to be replaced to provide proper cycling for Configurations 1 and 2 above?

  4. Would these alternate barrel configurations install using the same barrel nut and handguard? Timing on the barrel nut should not be critical as the handguard is the clamp on style.

  5. Does the crush washer need to be replaced every time a muzzle brake is removed and re-installed?

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You could use the same parts if it was of the same configuration as the new barrel. Much easier to get new but not required.

You are now getting into an SBR length issue. With a full length buffer tube about 10.5" is as far as you can go and stay legal.

You may find it beneficial to play with spring rates and buffer weights but they might just work fine.

Should work fine

Only if you cannot index the muzzle device properly. I keep all my old ones just in case they are close enough to use later.

Cheers,

Craig6

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To add a bit more onto this… really all that changes with 300BO is a different barrel. But you will very likely not want to keep taking the handguard, gas block, gas tube apart every time you want to swap. So you will likely end up getting a second upper because then all you have to do is release to two pins to swap uppers (takes like 30sec MAX).

And then… one day you will be staring at this upper sitting there without a lower. And decide to just get another lower so you dont have to keep popping those two pins every time you want to swap. And that’s how these AR15s tend to breed from one into a dozen before you know it.

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On the safety side of what @Harvey is advocating I had a completely different GUN CASE for my 6.8 SPC upper (later rifle as he predicts) so that ONLY the 6.8 parts were in it and no 5.56 parts. I will probably do the same thing with my AR-47. I don’t want to grab parts from different calibers and have half of one and half of the other. That said the easiest way to make 300 Blackout brass is to fire 223 down a 300 barrel (ie: fire form) but you may experience case neck cracks depending on the brass and it may or may not be good for your barrel.

Cheers,

Craig6

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So to stay legal with a 16" barrel would require a carbine or rifle buffer tube with a stock? Or get the required $200 SBR registration?

The buffer tube I ordered is a 7 inch “Pistol Buffer Tube” with a Blade Pistol Stabilizer …

You are right, I’m probably prematurely gathering data, but that’s just the engineering part of my brain trying to get some exercise :grinning:

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You just need to make sure a rifle is 26" long for it to legally be considered a rifle. I would get a lower with a carbine stock to be sure that you are meeting the requirements, as well as getting the full advantage of the rifle. A stock is more accurate than a brace.

If you want to get the tax stamp for an SBR, you should put a carbine stock lower on a pistol upper.

IIRC a “Pistol” has a barrel less than 16" in length. Which makes sense as a rifle must have a barrel 16" or longer in length. Other than that there is the OAL (Over All Length) of a pistol which must be less than 26". With an AR platform and buffer tube you end up only having about 12" of “possible” barrel length. You MIGHT be able to get a shortened buffer and spring to shove the boltcarrier home with a gas piston system but now you are talking big $$$.

There are several things that need to be evaluated when turning and AR into a pistol and they are not just suggestions.

Cheers,

Craig6.

My experience comes solely from using it in the Army.
Great rifles and easy to shoot. Many more people on this thread will be able to tell you with much more knowledge then me on what AR to buy parts etc. etc.
I will tell you a few things though. If your wondering weather is or not to get a .233 or 5.56 NATO barrel. Go with the 5.56.
Why the 5.56 round has more pressure then the .223. So you can safely shoot a .223 round out of a 5.56 barrel but not the other way around.
Your ammo choices will be more and theirs no chance of accidentally putting the wrong ammo in that way.
Two keep to a bare minimum the amount of toasters, chainsaws, lights, optics, lawnmowers, TV’s, recliners and fridges you attach to the rail system to a bare minimum at first get used to the weapon in its pure form and then go from there.
Keep it cleand and lubricated. Coming from a US ARMY Infantryman with 18 years about the best lube you can get and its cheap is. Breakfree CLP.
Works great and unless you live in the ARTIC all you will ever need.
Other then a good cleaning kit.
Well good luck and good shooting.

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Thanks @Paul104, that’s good advice. :+1:

I definitely agree with you that keeping the junk on the rails to a minimum is a good way to get used to how the rifle functions.

I was in the Army as well and the smell of CLP is still familiar. The taste too… anyways, I have found that Lucas Oil is making some outstanding lubrication oils that I switched to from CLP.

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S&W M&P Sport is also a great budget friendly AR platform. You can’t go wrong with PSA or Ruger carbine either. I chose S&W M&P over the Ruger AR556 because of the delta ring and the FSB (Front Sight Base). The Ruger FSB pins tend to walk. The Ruger is cold hammer forged but is not chrome line or nitrided, it’s just bare steel. The S&W barrel is nitrided, although they have a proprietary name for it…just can’t remember what it is. S&W has a 1:9 twist. Ruger is 1:8, I believe.

Also, you mention .22LR use. Are you planning on purchasing the CMMG .22LR conversion kit or purchasing a complete upper?

If you are going to build your AR, please understand your BCG choices, specifically what MIL-SPEC is and isn’t. Here is a link: https://www.pewpewtactical.com/best-ar-15-bcg-bolt-carrier-group/

I’ve seen too many times where AR builds go terribly wrong with what was thought to be MIL-SPEC BCG’s. Even the high end BCG’s (Nickel Boron and Titanium Nitride) can cause cycle issues.

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The clevis pin worked perfect :+1:

Thanks again for the tips!

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Just curious why none of the Springfield Armory AR model are not mentioned. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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The Springfield Saint line is pretty good. I think they just aren’t as popular as some of the others

My best friend owns a Saint. He says that it is the best AR he owns. He owns several of them but likes the Saint most of all. He is a retired Soldier and did 3 combat tours.

My safe has lots of Springfield Armory in it, just no AR’s :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

That said I have handled the Saint series and they look and feel nice. I build my own so the odds of me owning one is virtually zero.

Cheers,

Craig6

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@Christopher… I bought a Saint Victor 556 back in March. I think it’s an amazing rifle. Now I never intended to buy that Saint. I actually ordered one of the Diamondback DB15s. I think it was the DB15BGB. But, the guy sold me one not knowing it was out-of-stock. So, they cut me a deal on the difference between the DB15 & Springfield Saint Victor. :+1:t5::+1:t5:

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