When I EDC a revolver, I always have a “full” cylinder. Although I noticed a few presentations where the user instead, opts to keep one of six chambers empty, the one sitting on the position of the hammer – he claims, for safety reasons. Very well-loved presenter, but I never had the chance to ask questions as to why.
I figured, with today’s modern revolvers, it’s safe fully loaded, not to mention, there are only a few rounds to begin with, and my not wanting to go from 6 to only 5, or from 5 to only 4 rounds.
Are there some older revolvers whose hammer could strike without pulling the trigger or if dropped accidentally?
Of note: Sometimes I post just to have fun convo and learn more. Not saying one way is right or wrong, just what I’ve experienced. Who am I to judge. I’d rather you bring it as “you” like, than to leave it at home.
I’ll just say I have an old model single action revolver that does not have a transfer bar that disengages when the trigger is pulled. On my gun if the hammer is down, if it is dropped and hits the hammer, the gun can discharge if on a loaded chamber. New models have a transfer bar that moves out of the way with an intensional pulling of the trigger. So leaving one chamber empty depends on the gun. On all my other revolvers I carry fully loaded as they cannot fire if dropped.
Back when they smear grease behind the cylinder to avoid chainfire of multiple rounds kind of old is IIRC when it was known to keep the under-hammer empty so you didn’t shoot yourself in the leg while riding your horse
Yeah, He’s good at that…
But on the ‘set’ he’s an arrogant, manipulative, Big headed Tyrant
(and I only witnessed his A-game-A-holeness for a few hours)
Prior to the installation of transfer bars, older Colt and, I believe, S & W revolvers had the firing pin mounted on the hammer which, if dropped with a fully loaded cylinder, could possibly cause the weapon to fire.
I believe you know I love S&W products (they flat out work for me)
But I go to other makers for my Revolvers for your very clear reasons
You stated my Brother. I don’t know who actually said it "If it’s broke fix it’’
until then it’s Diamondback or Ruger or other for me.
I have read that the lock failures seem to occur only on very light guns with heavy loads. I don’t know if it’s true or not. I have one aluminum J frame with a lock. I’ve never had an issue through probably a thousand rounds on the gun, but, truth be told, I don’t carry it as a daily gun, and I also don’t rely on it for heavy loads. Basically it’s a backup. Call it hesitation based on internet reading. I have a couple other J frames without the lock, and one of those is my go-to pocket gun.
Why they put it on the scandium 357 is beyond me. I wish they’d remove it from all their revolvers.
Same, going back forever, which makes sense as the super ridiculously light guns with heavy magnum loads would recoil the sharpest and logically seem to have the highest chance of moving parts around internally
I have an old Model Ruger SA Blackhawk 3-screw (unconverted) myself that has a notch cut to lock the hammer slightly off of the firing pin. I’ve never had a ND or AD since I bought it. 'The Shootist" is one of my favorite movies.
Thanks brother. Got a new revolver last month. Not a Smith Wesson, but almost. I had some regrets that I didn’t get it, mostly because I read that their trigger was pretty good.
Ended up with a Kimber instead. I imagine a high quality product such as Smith Wesson is a most confident product indeed. After hearing your story, I feel better about my decision, though.
Saw a vid of a cool Dad who likes “that lock”, as he has small children. Good for him. He ain’t leaving that baby at home. LOL.
I think below is a pic of that internal key “hole/lock”. If it’s correct. Sorry Smith Wesson guys and girls, my software was not working right and the photo is not accurate in proportions, I noticed the copy was stretched in the pic, but one can see that lock just above the cylinder latch/opener lever:
Thanks again man. A little more peace of mind for me.
Yep! Older ones. For the reasons other have said. I actually had no idea that waaaaay back in the day they would be carried with an empty chamber. Our CCL instructor went through the history in one of the days of the class. He brought one in too. I’d love to shoot an old revolver like those from the late 1800s!
Modern revolvers all have some kind of safety mechanism that prevents the hammer from contacting the primer no matter what you do unless it is to pull the trigger all the way through to release. The old saw about carrying the hammer on an empty cylinder was 19th and on into the 20th century Colt single action army revolvers had no such safety. Typically, half cock was supposed to be the safety but it was notoriously infamous for falling somehow leading to the expression, “He went off half-cocked.” Early issue Ruger single action revolvers also featured hammer resting on primer. Somewhere mid 20th century Ruger installed a transfer bar in their single action revolvers, thus eliminating hammer contact with primer. The transfer bar only raises when the trigger is fully depressed and then the hammer falls striking the transfer bar and igniting the primer. Ruger maintains a service where they will install the transfer bar system, thus rendering the firearm safer to carry fully loaded. They perform this service free of charge and return the original parts together with the improved version. Many older Rugers are in demand as collector’s items and an older Ruger with the new transfer bar is not “original” and demands a lesser price, thus Ruger showing the good business sense they have almost always exhibited returns the parts so that the collector can “restore” his collectible to its original half safe condition. I would never carry a modern revolver with an empty cylinder. Why not keep it at home, locked in a safe? Load 'er up and take advantage of a full cylinder. After a fire fight no one ever said, “Next time I’m not bringing so much ammunition.”
All of my revolvers except an old Charter Arms 38 that was my Mom’s have a transfer bar to provent the hammer from hitting the firing pin in the event you drop it on the hammer. I only shoot that old 38 at the range so I’m not really worried about it & yes you can see the serial number so shut up
1 por un burrito 
