Let’s talk 1911s, whatcha got, whatcha want?

Now on my shopping list:

@Nancy - Chamfer
chamfer
Machining or woodworking term for describing a particular edge shape when forming parts :grin:

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@Zee Thanks for the pictures.
@Nancy The picture is a 45* chamfer. That is NOT what I’m talking about but the pic helps. Decease that angle to like 10* mebby 7*. You want no more than the thickness of a standard un coated paper clip of clearance at the far ends of the ears, like 1/32". Just enough yo break the sharp 90* edge of the bushing ears to get things moving.

Cheers,

Craig6

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Here is the bestie that started it all for me. Purchased on my 21st birthday. 30 days later I took a hacksaw to her to begin fitting the Ed Brown beaver tail. The holster and the finished product are roughly the same age.

The black bits have all been re coated / blued at least 3 times. I gave up on the vanity of it about 15 years ago and let the “grey” shine through :laughing:

Cheers,

Craig6

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More embarrassing, in the long run, to go home without being able to shoot your firearm because you didn’t ask :wink:

Racking that slide can be a commitment - here’s the technique I use with a very hard-to-rack firearm (I’m right handed). Forgive me if I’m telling you stuff you already know. I’m using @Craig6’s lots-of-words plan since I don’t have video.

  1. Hold the firearm in my right, finger off the trigger, pointed downrange, with my elbow bent and my right elbow roughly at my right side. (this is the same arm position I use when typing this… elbow at my side, forearm extended forward.)

  2. Left hand at my center chest with the arm held high… left elbow high, not down at my side. (think: Roman chest-thumping salute)

  3. Turn my left side downrange so I’m facing the shooter to my right while keeping my firearm pointed downrange. This will put my right hand and the firearm more or less in front of my solar plexus (this is why you want the left arm/elbow up, so you don’t muzzle your left elbow.)

  4. Ok now you’re in position. Make sure you’re still pointing the muzzle down range and your left arm is clear above the muzzle.

  5. Grip the slide with the left hand so your thumb is on the near side and the fingers are on the far side of the slide. Get as much skin on the sides of the slide as you can, but not the top of the slide (because the rear sights will bite you across your palm as you rack and release if you are on the top of the slide).

  6. Rack by DRIVING your right hand with the gun towards the target, and DRIVING your left hand towards your right elbow. You’re using your pectoral muscles and biceps in opposition to each other, and that should be maximum muscle leverage. Basically you are trying to drive the gun frame through the slide while driving the slide through the gun frame. The frame will then take the slide through your left hand as it reaches the end of the rack. Do make sure your left hand isn’t contacting the top of the slide because when it escapes your left hand, you don’t want the rear sights dragging across the left palm as they go by (that hurts).

  7. I usually end with my left hand roughly over my right elbow and my right hand and gun under my left elbow.

  8. Step back into normal shooting position, muzzle remaining downrange, left arm staying up and clear of the muzzle.

Anyway, that’s what I do. And if the slide is really stiff, I rack it like I’m mad at it. :rage:

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Ladies. While the act of cycling a round into the camber is a significant event on the RANGE the more likely event should you need to utilize your firearm in the event of a real shooting is that you will hit the safety and the trigger at the same time which WILL cause you to shoot low and left of the target. Train to have the safety depressed prior to the pounds of pressure required to loose the hammer. There are multiple methods to accomplish this, my trained and preferred method is to bring the gun center, attain a solid two hand grip, safety off and push the gun to the center of the target hitting my detonation point at or near full extension. It is a skill set that can be taught and honed upon. It is a train slowly and develop muscle memory scenario.

Rake (your garment), Stance (MOVE), Grip, Brake (the thumb brake) Lift, Rotate, Point, Center, Safety (OFF), Push, Bang!

I promise you that if you need to rack the slide when you’re A$$Hole is wrapped around your neck you will not even notice that you did it providing you don’t go into vapor lock because you trained poorly and don’t know what to do next.

Cheers,

Craig6

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@craig6 sometimes we need to work the baby steps :wink: that’s what all the racking breakdown steps at the range are for. But I do it there so I build the muscles and muscle memory I might need later.

FWIW I wouldn’t carry a gun I can’t effective rack. In front, up, down, one handed on my belt or holster, weak or strong hand. And as far as safeties… mostly I carry Glocks so I AM the safety :wink:

I’ve never had to deal with a gun-drawing emergency (and I hope I never have to). But I’ve dealt with other kinds and have had both the time distortion everything-slow time to think things through and make every action under total control experience and the its allover in a flash and I’ll have to see it on the video to know what happened experience.

In both cases that train train train thing matters. :+1:

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:heart_eyes::star_struck::heart_eyes::star_struck::heart_eyes::star_struck::heart_eyes::star_struck::heart_eyes::star_struck:

1911all

Does it whatcha want? :+1:
(just got this pic on my email)

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@Jerzy … just goin’ with ooooOOOOOooooo!

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@Craig6 @Zee You guys are the best! Thanks for taking the time and effort to give me (us) a blow-by-blow on racking my 1911 with my weak hands. It seems it’s best to get the whole body involved and use leverage to the best of my ability. I’ve read and re-read both your instructions and hope it will make a difference at the range. So thank you both for everything.

And @Craig6, thanks for the explanation on chamfers and making mods to your gun. I don’t even have a file (yet), but hope to learn a lot after reading the books you recommended and re-reading your posts. Thank you!

@Jerzy Those are some beautiful firearms – who owns all 10 of those? You? Color me impressed!

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@Nancy READ first! Ask Questions next. Then pick up the file. In that order, don’t ask me how I learned that :flushed:

I burned a lot of parts learning how to do things without instruction or help. That said for every part I threw out, I learned from it. I fortunately did not screw up (too badly) the frame, slide or barrel.

Cheers,

Craig6

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I wish to have these in my collection…
These are Wilson Combats, my favourite 1911.
UPDATE: actually, 6 x 1911 and 4 x Berettas

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I don’t actually own an true 1911’s, but I have a couple that are based off of them and I love them both. Here they are:

STI 2011

Wilson EDC x9

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My dad has a gun from WWII. I call it the Nazi Nine, because it was made by a conquered Polish factory for the Nazis during the war. Has a Swastika and Eagle on it and everything.

Now might be a good time to point out that we are history buffs and like historical artifacts. We are not Nazis.

It looks like a 1911 on the outside, but apparently works like a Browning Hi-Power. The breakdown is apparently similar to a 1911’s though. I’ve been told they did it that way because of patent law, of all things.

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@LordDeinonychus - it might be VIS35, made in Poland before and during WWII. This gun was called “Polish Eagle”, it was based on Hi-Power / FN GP35. Few parts from VIS35 were interchangeable with Colt M1911A1.

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@Nancy from an old post Jul 14

Look at Hogue grips, they make them in slab sided as well as finger groove and “fat” for us meat hook guys. They are soft and “sticky” but don’t leave a residue.

1911 Grips

Cheers,

Craig6

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I forget the actual name, but it’s something like Raedon. Reminds me of Rodan, except Nazi instead of a Japanese kaiju.

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@LordDeinonychus
Radom.
City in Poland where this pistol was manufactured.
You should see mark on slide: “F.B Radom” - which stands for “Fabryka Broni Radom” [eng: Arms Factory Radom]

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@Craig6 you really are the best. Thanks for the link to the grips. All kinds of nice grips there!

@LordDeinonychus I’d really like to see a pic of the Nazi gun, if you have access to it. I’m a WWII buff, in a minor way, and would love to see that pistol!

@Jerzy how do you know so much about that gun?

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@Nancy I’m half thinking about starting a thread about the mods I am planning to do to this RIA so I don’t end up Hijacking this thread all the time. Just to show folks what can be done with a hand file, Dremel and a little patients and the willingness to act. Right now I am envisioning ~ $200 - 300 in parts and another $95 - 150 for refinishing (mebby a bit more if I decide to turn the frame silver and the slide black ~2 bills if I do) Cerecoat is a beautiful thing.

The main reason I bought the pistol is because (a: I know the company and it’s history and b:I have had an itch to build another full size 1911 so why not start with a functioning pistol with a price tag of less than $425 out the door? It came with half the parts and mods I was looking for! Even given my “Box O spare parts” it was much less than I could have pieced one together for.

Out of the gate the Ambi Safety was killing me so it didn’t even make it a week before I started cutting on it. I am still not happy with it and may end up junking the whole process for a left safety, but not quite yet. I’m hard headed like that.

What say you? New thread and lots of pic’s over time on turning a functional pistol into a master piece?

Cheers,

Craig6

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I say start a new thread. I would love to see what you do. I can do a very little bit of fitting work on a 1911. I have a 'smith do my major stuff. Heck, who does not like gun pictures?

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